From Pieve di Soligo,
birthplace and home of Andrea Zanzotto, a leading light of Italian
poetry, to the gates of Valdobbiadene: a land of vineyards, small
silk mills and shops dealing in furnishing fabrics, where the lively
Prosecco also plays its part, inspiring artists and writers.
“The hills around Farra can still take my breath away, especially
in the early morning, with the dew still on the ground”. Andrea
Zanzotto, one of the great exponents of contemporary Italian poetry,
has always eulogized his home environs in prose and verse, and never
wanted to move away. Born 80 years ago in Pieve di Soligo, he still
lives there despite his long-standing and openly critical views on
the unbridled industrial and building development of the late twentieth
century. “It has not all been lost, thankfully”, he says. “There
are still a few spots that continue to remind me of paintings by
Giorgione and Cima da Conegliano”. The lakes of Revine, for
example, whose waters mirror “the reflections of an unchanged
landscape”. Or the groundwater falls between Vidor and Moriamo
della Battaglia, “salons of green bathed by myriad watercourses”.
These places, referred to by the poet as “scattered reminders
in a pervasive cementification”, would be enough to bring pleasure
on a trip through the Quartier del Piave, that theatre of memorable
battles, tucked between the heights of the Treviso Pre-Alps and the
silvery course of the famous river. But besides the landscape, this
is an area that offers great wines and fine cuisine, rural traditions
and art treasures. Zanzotto’s own home town of Pieve di Soligo,
with its renaissance historic centre, is the ideal starting point
for an itinerary of both gastronomic and local craft interest, visiting
prestigious wineries and the small but exclusive restaurants of the
Alta Marca Trevigiana. It is through this same hill country that
the middle part of the Strada del Prosecco winds its way, from Conegliano
to Valdobbiadene. And these generous soils also yield the excellent
Colli di Conegliano (red and white), the rare Marzemino, a raisin
wine, or the more popular Verdino. The cuisine is seasonal in most
of the restaurants, with mushrooms in autumn and self-seeding herbs
in spring, and features a number of products typical to the area,
notably Sopressa sausage, Malga cheeses, and red Treviso lettuce.
But the Quartier del Piave is also famous for game and selections
of spit-roast meats, which have their maximum expression in the giant
community spit roast prepared every year at Pieve di Soligo in October.
Just a few kilometres from Pieve is Farra di Soligo, which boasts one
of the most refined and elegant hotels in the area, the Hotel Villa
Soligo, occupying a neoclassical mansion set in extensive parkland.
Up on the hill behind the hotel is the Hermitage of San Gallo and,
amongst the vines grown by the estate of the same name, the Casa Rossa
restaurant, noted for its excellent grilled meat. The origins of Farra
are lost in the mists of time, as evident from the Bronze Age remains
found there, and from its Lombardic place-name. Also traceable to Lombardic
times are the ruins of the Torri di Credazzo, overlooking the hamlet
of Col San Martino, well-known to gourmets for its Locanda da Condo,
a standard bearer of the local restaurant tradition. The route now
leads upward through the chestnut woods of Combai, an ancient village
of stone houses, down again toward Campea, and up once more to Premaor,
where Giovanni Gregoletto, of the Gregoletto vine-growing family, makes
wine and invents much more besides, under the Vallis Marena Pulchra
brand: for instance? The “cooper’s cape”, a full
cloak selling like hotcakes, prints of vines taken from an old ampélographie,
and a CD eloquently titled “Musica del Vino”. Down again
to Soligo to visit the church of S. Maria dei Caminesi, with frescoes
dating from the 14th century, and Solighetto, where the 18th century
Villa Brandolini houses a local history museum with a section dedicated
to the soprano Toti Del Monte, who loved to spend her time in the area.
For shoppers, two places of note on the road to Follina: Seta Veneta
for silk scarves, fabrics and remnants; Cesca for table and bed linen,
and towels made to measure from materials with original patterns. From
Follina the route winds up again into the hills. Refrontolo is Marzemino
country. Unlike the Trentino red of the same name, this is a raisin
wine, a vino da meditazione: in late autumn, the grapes can
be seen drying in the loft of the farmhouse on the Astoria estate.
The road continues toward San Pietro di Feletto, where the countryside
is of unparalleled beauty. Comprising five main communities in amongst
the rows of vines (Rua, Bagnolo, San Pietro, San Michele and Santa
Maria), the area boasts a number of notable art treasures, like the
town hall at Rua, housed in an old Camaldolensian hermitage, and the
Mediaeval parish church of San Pietro, known for its fresco depicting
the Sunday Christ. For epicurean shoppers, grappa by Beniamino Maschio
can be purchased direct from the producer, and tasty organic goat’s
milk cheeses from Perenzin (among the delicacies, goat robiola and
ricotta, and formajo ciock, a cheese soaked in grape must).
Notable among the many wineries here are Giuliano Bazzo, producer of
Prosecco and Merlot, and bottler of Prosecco-Vino dei poeti,
with labels by Giulio Turcato; this is a wine designed by Club Verdurin,
a coterie of intellectuals united by a common love for the Marca Trevigiana,
who gather at the nearby Casa Flaminio. The bed & breakfast establishment
of Lia and Flaminio De Martin has long been a meeting place and buen
retiro for poets and artists; famous guests over the years, along
with Andrea Zanzotto, have included Alberto Moravia and Mario Luzi,
Federico Fellini and Mario Soldati, Elio Bartolini and Carlo Bo. The
rooms are decorated with frescoes by painters who happen also to be
friends of the family. Not far away, Italian Equestrian Endurance champion
Piero Spinazzè runs a riding club, the Ca' Borg (tel. 0438/784338),
with his wife Anna. Here, anyone wanting to discover the Prosecco hills
on horseback will find the ideal tour guide.
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